Quick start guide?
There is a library of scripts available and a lot of experienced users willing to help. Install is as simple as dropping into a folder on the HAH.
Scripting is the best part once you get used to it. Very powerful
Give it ago. What do you have to lose but a small amount of cash and some time
Cheers garry
There may be a Hah user nearby willing to let you see there set up?
Also i think i may have a spare tx and spare cc dev board somewhere that i may be willing to sell at a reasonable cost (same as what i have sold them/bought them for in the past as i went mad on ebay last year)
The current cost comes in 4 parts.
Monitor-used as a display and interface to the usb cable and the clamps and wirelessly to the TX.
put clamp round cable (single core) connect clamp to transmitter (which is wireless) this wirelessly sends data back to the monitor so the monitor/display does not have to be near the meter and can be near the HAH.
the display/monitor connects via the usb to the hah.
you can have more than 1 display-so you could have a display in living room etc.
the current cost and ldr in my case perform the task of telling if i am feeding or drawing from the grid as my meter has an led on it that goes solid on when i am feeding the grid, this is seen on the current cost in a channel as 500w and this is interperated by the hah.
you can have up to 9 individual sensors on the current cost monitor these can be a mix of dev boards (like mine) multiple clamps water flow sensors etc etc the list iss endless (well nearly) check out the cc site here its full of usefull information.
also where are you you could be near one of us? and we could show yuo are setup's.
Dean
Some have been successfull without the dev board.
I've been messing about with the script done by jamesg mentioned here:
http://www.homeautomationhub.com/content/script-switching-onoff-water-he...
It doesn't work as listed because it's written for plugboard v1 but I've done some modifications and am testing it at the moment. Whilst I still don't really understand how it works it does seem to basically do the job.
My only misgiving is that I still think that it cannot be certain whether the grid is actually being fed or not and therefore it may switch on an additional load when you are actually drawing from the grid. I need a little more time (and some sunshine) to do further testing.
Allan
Well actually I don't control immersion heaters but I think jamesg controls 2 500w immersions by switching 2 rf controlled sockets on/off depending on the amount of "surplus" PV generation. I am merely in the process of trying to convert his script to run on the latest version of the plugboard to see if it would be a possibility for general use in switching rf devices.
I'm not finished converting the script yet but when I think I have a working copy I'll be happy to let others have a go and see how well it works.
Allan
For anyone who is interested I have now posted the modified script on the original page.
http://www.homeautomationhub.com/content/script-switching-onoff-water-he...
Allan
I would start with the basics.
Livebox and current cost, this is all you need to start uploading to pachube and do a simulation of switching (you get a web based flash gui that will show when stuff is on or off even if it isnt as the HAH pcb/hardware is not there.
so you need correct type of livebox. and envir currentcost complete(with data cable)
that will get you up running and playing.
Dean
The HAH is currently platformed on the Livebox router. These can still be had on eBay.co.uk for around the £10 mark. We're keeping an eye on the rasp pi, but these are currently not terribly available, don't come with a nice case, don't come with a PSU and cost > £10.
If you want to get started, first thing to do is to win a Livebox on eBay. Then hack into it by following the notes on the wiki http://www.dbzoo.com/livebox/firmware (or buy a pre-hacked one from the shop http://www.homeautomationhub.com/content/reflashed-livebox).
After that, you might want to add the ability to switch RF devices - this is probably the easiest way to switch upto a 13A load under control from the HAH ... http://www.homeautomationhub.com/content/hah-parts-bundle or just buy whatever subset of the parts that you might use.
Jogglers do make a really nice User Interface. You do need to readup how the xapFlash piece works, http://www.dbzoo.com/livebox/xapflash but there are quite a few users out there who might be able to offer advice.
Cheers,
Derek.