Script request for RF stuff
12 December, 2011 - 20:06
I already use the script which reads the rf ststes and keeps them on a reboot which is excellent. but heres my problem.
the rf is one way so if it's on it's on (but it might not be)
what would be nice is a script which analyzez the on/off script file and re-sends the relevant commands every XXseconds (5 minutes by default?) as the RF althougth much more stable sometimes the sockets do not respond to the command.
anyone else notice this?
i have both status and new lidl
Dean
12 December, 2011 - 23:08
#2
Without feedback
The is as reliable as pressing the button on the remote supplied with the sockets. Without feedback its impossible to know what is going on. What you need is a separate system to feedback power, such as a sensor monitoring the uptick in current.
Brett
13 December, 2011 - 08:27
#3
My experience
I have numerous sockets of the old lidl type. I use these (butchered into pieces in some cases) for my heating, outside lighting and interior lamps. I find them extremely reliable. The only issue I've ever had was when two sockets were close to each other. I have the hah in the boiler cabinet which is quite a distance from my outside lights sockets but again no issues. Could it be the rf strings you are using are not quite right and on the end of some tolerance? Garry
13 December, 2011 - 08:40
#4
I have new ones and new codes....
and not so reliable. It took me a little while to figure out that I needed to train them from the HAH and not the remote - Doh! Actually, this may suggest that the codes are slightly off.
If I had a scope I could check - hmm Christmas wishlist!
The feedback through current cost is a good idea, if only I had the time to get my head around LUA..,,
13 December, 2011 - 08:50
#5
Lots of variables with RF
There are a load of variables with the 'fire and forget' 433MHz transmissions. Antenna type and positioning is an important aspect. I use an external magmount 433MHz antenna and find total reliability with my Lidl sockets.
However, you must also account for other sources of 433MHz 'noise' upsetting things. Having too many receivers very close to each other will also reduce the sensitivity of each receiver.
When setting up, create a little on/off test script ... this should toggle the RF device every ten secs of so. Then position your transmitter and set it running. If you don't see total reliability (e.g. not even a single missed transmission over 20mins) then you need to do more work.
RF tolerance is also a possibility. Whilst mass produced, there may well be variations between batches of parts. The units that I decoded for the wiki writeup were just from a single sample ... it might indeed be 'on the edge'. If you want to be totally sure, use a 'scope to observe the actual transmission from your handheld controller. Then compare with that from the HAH and adjust the URF strings as needed.
Having a feedback loop is, of course, the ultimate way to go. The currentcost IAMs are a good way to do this. a roomNode can also help with feedback on things like light level and temperature.
I've got some time off just now and intend to decode a few of the same sort of transmitter ... just to see what sort of variance there actually is. I'll update the wiki if anything needs tweaking.
Derek.
13 December, 2011 - 09:41
#7
further info
Taking it as read that homes are an RF nightmare (with two baby monitors and not least as I am licensed to transmit up to 400 watts on 70cm.) ;-)
Anyway, I took a look at xfx message viewer and the current cost feedback may not be a reliable method anyway. With a pc and ch on etc. the house watts goes up and down in little fluctuations all the time, it would be easy for the system to confuse the PC taking a bit more power with a low wattage bulb or the christmas tree lights going on.
Alan
13 December, 2011 - 16:11
#9
Never confused!
and yes - too expensive .
Just a thought here Dean. Would triggering the googlecal functionality work for this? As I understand it it could fire off a command every minute for the duration of the calendar event.
13 December, 2011 - 19:05
#10
I'll hold my hands up to
I'll hold my hands up to decoding the RF signal for the new Lidl sockets. What I have noticed is that the BBSB ones that I have seem to work all the time, the Lidl don't always work, BUT, that includes with the remote as well as the HAH.
When I was decoding the Lidl RF I noticed that each Lidl button, A B C or D, can send one of 4 codes for both on and off. When I get time, I'll decode the sequences again just to confirm that I've got them right.
One thing that I have noticed, is that if I schedule two RF devices to trigger at the same time, more often that not only one will be triggered. I've now staggered my crontab with a minute between scheduled events.
20 December, 2011 - 17:28
#11
Lidl RF decodes
Just to add to the mix. Now that Christmas light switching in in full blown mode I've noticed that on my system the RF 1 "off" code seems to switch off the RF 2 socket as well as the RF 1 socket, and the RF 3 "off" code seems to switch off a socket that is switched on by the RF 1 code. Causing grief and confusion for SWMBO. :-( Perhaps I'd better try re-programming the whole lot!
20 December, 2011 - 18:17
#12
Great Little Units
The Lidl units are great, they can be programmed with multiple codes, that's what's happened with yours. If you still have the manual page 9 section 9 tells you what to do.
Basically turn the unit on, then hold the learn button in for approx. 10 seconds, this clears any codes, you can then program it in the normal way.
Yes I agree with you. I only have the new Lidl remote sockets.
The HAH is a great toy but I have to say that it is not reliable enough at socket switching for me to trust it to switch appliances on or off if I'm not actually in the house to check that the RF command has worked. Most of the time it works fine but from time to time the switching just doesn't work. I certainly wouldn't trust it if I was away from the house for several days at a time and had to switch any fairly high wattage devices.
Perhaps it's the Lidl and Asda sockets that are the problem. It would be interesting to get a range of experience from others.